The Southern Upland Way is a 212 mile long distance footpath detailed here.
The Southern Upland Way is Britain's first official coast to coast long distance footpath, covering 212 miles (340km) from Portpatrick to Cockburnspath. It traverses through a relatively unknown but very interesting part of Scotland. The terrain is varied although the mountains are not as high as elsewhere in Scotland, probably the reason for its anonymity.
We saw very few people walking the way when myself and two friends walked it in the fortnight surrounding May day 1996. Distances do not include additional walking to accommodation.
This is the start of the southern upland way (SUW) which unfortunately has to leave the picturesque sea port of Portpatrick ablaze with sunshine , along the coastal cliffs from which Northern Ireland can be seen. Further along the coast at Killantringan lighthouse (the site of a shipwreck in 1982) is where the SUW turns inland not to see the coast again until Cockburnspath. The path follows a mixture of road and footpaths through a few villages some farmland and moorland before Stranraer can be seen to the north. We then went through some mixed woodland into Castle Kennedy. We stayed in the old railway station.
The second day is also a gentle intro. into the SUW (brilliant sunshine) and was taken at a leisurely pace, starting through Castle Kennedy gardens, passes Lochinch Castle. The way passes through some woodland which was ablaze with colourful flowers, across the water Luce then over the moorland to the road where the waterfall can be seen. We turned away from the SUW and walked into New Luce itself where we stayed in the inn.
The trek uphill back to the waterfall started this tougher day (in the pouring rain), which returned to the moorland and then into coniferous woodland to the Laggangain Standing Stones, also where the Bothy situated. Here we were detoured all around the forest before passing through the hamlet on Knowe and onto the moors once again. The day ended in Bargrennan with a pint in the House of the Hill hotel before we got the bus to Minnigaff Youth Hostel in Newton Stewart.
A rush for the bus back to Bargrennan with a real bad hangover was not the ideal start to this drizzly day. This day was the start of the loch and forest scenery which dominated the middle section of the SUW. It started with thick forest until Loch Trool, where Martyr's Tomb can be visited. The SUW follows the south side of the loch in Glen Trool (not a place for Englishmen) woodland which eventually turns to moorland until Loch Dee, where we hit forest once again. This continues past Clatteringshaws Loch and back into moorland for the gentle descent past the power station (hydroelectric), and over the Water of Ken via a footbridge into Dalry.
This being the toughest day was guaranteed the worst weather, and we got it, rain and sleet on the low moorland leaving Dalry, turning to snow as we climbed up Manquhill Hill. As we approached the snow covered Benbrack (580m) blizzard conditions prevailed and we were lost. We had to ford streams, climb fences etc. to regain the SUW which was now a woodland track, then turned to road. We had to abandon the day here due to the time and bad weather. We got a lift to our accommodation in Sanquhar.
The weather was superb complete contrast to the previous day so we got a lift to where we finished the previous day and endeavored to make up the distance. We were walking into a biting wind over the moorland but made the 7 miles into Sanquhar in good time, passing the castle on the way and stocking up on previsions. We then started the slow moorland climb to the endless track which eventually leads to the small but interesting village of Wanlockhead. This old lead mining village has a museum and an old beam engine. The railway is now disused. We stayed in the youth hostel. The only drink to be had is in the British legion as the inn marked on the map is now derelict.
The weather was reasonable for the highest point of the SUW, Lowther Hill (725m) which was climbed quickly from Wanlockhead (Britain's highest Village). This hill is spoilt by an early warning radar station. The next section is very much up and down, passing over Cold Moss, Laght Hill, past Daer Reservoir and over Sweetshaw Brae. The next section is one of the worst of the SUW a trudge through a forest on a track, with no views and no change for miles. We dropped down off the moors into Beatock for our B&B and a couple of beers, knowing that we had past the mid point.
This was the day we had longed for and the weather was fantastic. We left Beatock passing under the A74 and over the River Annan, then through farmland which turns to forest reaching 383 m before dropping into the Ettrick valley which is lovely but the walking of several miles on tarmac is not fun. Eventually you turn off and contour around the hills into St Mary's Loch which is a welcome sight knowing we had the next day off to drink heavily in the Tibbie Shiels Inn which has the official opening plaque and also sells SUW memorabilia.
A fantastic hangover, great food and a lie in what luxury.
This was an overcast day but the walk beside the loch was pleasant. The rest of the day was uneventful and pretty boring although a nice easy day was welcome. Apart from several ruins which were quite interesting. We finished in Traquair but stayed in Innerleithen. We recommend the Traquair Arms Hotel for food and for the special Traquair Ales, brewed locally.
A poor day weather wise but it improved later into good sunshine started with a climb through more woodland over minch moor and its cheese well. The highlight of the day was the Three Brethren, three very large cairns. The terrain was good and the scenery pleasant as we dropped through some woods and crossed the River Tweed. It was a short hop over the moor into Galashiels, but still a few miles into Melrose with its Abbey, we stayed in the Youth Hostel.
This was an easy day dictated by the accommodation, the weather was good so we took our time ambling along, back over the River Tweed, through farmland which was rather bland. the highlight of the day was Melrose Abbey and the footbridge. We got to Lauder early and spent a great deal of time in the pub.
This long day was to compensate for the previous day and was once again good weatherwise. We left Lauder and passes the impressive Thirlestane Castle then over several miles of farmland and moorland over Twin Law (447m) to Longformacus. The next section was more interesting through small woods and farmland and into the valley. The path follows the River although elevated from it through the valley. This was a pleasant walk into Abbey St Bathans for our only dry night as there is no pub. We stayed at the youth hostel.
The final day and a short one at that to give us time to enjoy it, weather was not as good as hoped but the rain held off. The walk from Abbey St Bathans is through good woodlands, over a footbridge. Then through farmland to the A1, which you have to cross. Then through woodland which follows the railway cutting and after a short while the sea can be seen (as can Torness Nuclear Power Station) although it is a few miles to the finish yet. The path drops down to Pease bay where we took a short detour to the sea. Then its back up but this time onto the sea cliffs to Cove (Cove Harbour is well worth a visit) and then short walk inland under the A1 to the uninspiring town of Cockburnspath the center of which is the finish. It is marked by the ancient mercat cross. We celebrated in the hotel.
Picture of Us at the Finish.
